Wine Review: Perpetual Change Sparkling Wine

Perpetual Change NV Sparkling Wine

Review by Heidi Kipkowski

I have to say the Finger Lakes (NY) is really a wine region that needs to be on everyone’s radar. The wines coming out of this area that I’ve tasted as of late have been ‘WOW’ moments for sure and Perpetual Change is no exception. 

I picked up this bottle in the shop because I was curious, not only because of where it’s from but the blend is intriguing…..Chardonnay, Riesling (YES), Pinot Blanc and a dash of Pinot Noir, also the fact that it is a Brut Nature (no residual sugar). I have to admit that the label and the name are pretty engaging too. So, upon pouring the wine into the glass I couldn’t help but notice all the beautiful bubbles, lots and lots of them, which is to be expected for a wine made in the traditional method. Perpetual Change has a beautiful light golden color and when given a swirl the bubbles reignite like they were just freshly poured. This was an indication that this winemaker knows what they are doing. Upon first smell I started to get a freshness that you only really get in cool climate wine, just ripened apple, pear, peach and lots of minerality. I had to go in for a sip and yep, there’s the WOW factor!! Oh, my goodness, so much complexity. There’s lemon that hits the sides of your tongue but is so gentle that it doesn’t turn your mouth into a waterfall. There is some honeysuckle nuance that is barely there but just enough to make the sip seemingly sweet even though this wine is bone dry. There is enough fruit here to give you the impression that it could be a brut but it’s not. Every grape plays it’s part with tons of elegance and fruit from the Chardonnay, touches of peach from the riesling,  roundness  & acidity from the Pinot Blanc and structure from the Pinot Noir. This is an all-encompassing food wine but Bugels + Perpetual Change = a thing.

The winemaker, Nancy Irelan, is an all-around bad ass. She has a PhD in grape genetics (UC Davis) and spent a decade at a very large, high-volume winery in California before coming to the finger lakes to start her journey with a focus on allowing personal touch and unique personality/terroir to shine thorough in the vineyard. She is a 2-time James Beard nominee for winemaking and after tasting her creation, I think you’ll understand. This is such a gorgeous, well-made wine, I really don’t know who wouldn’t enjoy it. Cheers!!